The Cromwell is a tank I have many kits of, and I’ve built it before. My previous build was the Airfix version, so this time I decided to go with the Revell kit. In my earlier build, I hadn’t used the dozer blades at the front, but I planned to include them in this one.
The assembly was very straightforward. Since the Cromwell’s structure is mostly flat panels without complex curves, it was quite easy to put together. The kit itself is also well-designed and doesn't cause issues, so I completed this stage quickly.
The most challenging part for me was the individual track links. However, Revell provided flash-free, high-quality tracks, which made the job easier.
Once assembly was done, I primed the tank with a grey primer. I believe priming really helps paint adhere better to plastic. Another important but often overlooked step is washing the sprues in soapy water before assembly. It makes both gluing and painting much easier—even though I often forget to do it myself.
After priming, I fixed any flaws I noticed on the model. I recommend paying special attention to the side fenders on the front and rear, and the turret’s side armor plates. These parts don’t fit perfectly and tend to leave visible gaps, which were still noticeable even in the final photos.
I went with a green color I had used before. To avoid repeating my mistake with the Airfix Cromwell, I lightened the green a bit. I didn’t do much color modulation or any pre-shading for this build.
Once the base coat was complete, I moved on to the details and tracks. I painted the tracks a rust color, added anthracite to the metallic areas, and dry-brushed them with a metallic finish. I also painted the rubber parts of the wheels in anthracite.
At the end of the painting stage, I dry-brushed the entire tank. People sometimes say I overdo it, but in the final result, I think it balances out well and gives the model depth.
I painted the fire extinguisher on the right side of the tank red. Honestly, I’m not sure if that’s historically accurate, but I think it helps break up the visual monotony, so I went with it.
Once all the painting was complete, I sealed everything with a satin varnish. I’ve stopped using gloss varnish because I find it hard to remove the shine in later stages.
After varnishing, I applied the decals. I chose Polish Army markings because of their high print quality. I especially like the “Winged Hussar” emblem included in the set, so I’ll likely keep using it in future builds.
Once the decals were dry and settled, I applied another layer of varnish. It’s important to protect each stage of work with varnish—otherwise, subsequent layers can ruin what came before.
Once the varnish fully cured, I moved on to oil painting. I began with filters—starting with white, then continuing with green and burnt sienna.
After the filters dried, I added oil paint dots in different colors on the horizontal surfaces and blended them out using a brush and turpentine. This helps break up the model’s monotone color and adds natural variation.
The biggest downside of oil paint is that it dries slowly and can cause shiny spots if not properly blotted. I solved the drying issue by doing oil work the night before my work shifts. By the time I returned home, the model was dry and ready for the next stage.
After finishing the horizontal areas, I moved to the vertical surfaces. To be honest, I didn’t do a good job on this part. The color transitions weren’t smooth, and I probably should’ve blended the oils more thoroughly.
Once the oil paints had fully dried, I applied a very thin layer of semi-matte varnish. Gloss would’ve worked better at this stage, but I stopped using it because I always had trouble toning down the shine afterward.
For the wash, I used Humbrol’s black enamel wash. I also own a brown wash that’s more suited for green vehicles, but I avoided it because it tends to leave too much residue.
I first applied the wash liberally over the tank and then removed the excess with a turpentine-dipped brush. I used to use white spirit, but it can damage the underlying paint, so I’ve switched to turpentine.
After the wash, I sealed the model with matte varnish again. Matte varnish creates a slightly rough surface, which helps pigments and weathering products stick better.
I started weathering with the road wheels and adjacent parts of the hull. I applied different pigments and fixed them with pigment fixer. Since I don’t do heavy weathering anymore, this level felt just right.
I dusted the wheels lightly and applied muddy and dusty washes. Since each wheel had a unique tone from the oil paints, I didn’t want to completely cover that effect with weathering.
For the tracks, I began with a wash, then added pigments between the links. I set them with fixer and did some metallic dry-brushing for final highlights.
I painted the dozer blades at the front in a rust color. I then dry-brushed the contact edges with anthracite and metallic paint. After that, I applied dust pigments over the entire blade, fixing them with turpentine. I prefer turpentine over pigment fixer here because it lets me remove excess pigment more easily.
I added soot effects to the barrel tip and rear exhaust area. Since the sides of the tank are exposed, I figured some dust would also accumulate on the hull, so I lightly dusted those surfaces too.
I applied dust washes and pigments to the lower rear hull and fixed them with turpentine. I didn’t add any extra streaking this time around.
As a final step, I used graphite and regular pencils to polish the raised details and edges. This adds a realistic metallic sheen and reduces the plastic-like look of the model. I always apply this technique to all the prominent details.
After one final inspection, I completed the weathering process. Since I genuinely enjoy the Cromwell as a subject, the build was fun from start to finish. I still have more Cromwell kits, and I know I’ll build them without hesitation.
The Revell Cromwell kit is now complete and has taken its place in my display cabinet. I definitely recommend this kit to anyone interested. It’s problem-free and enjoyable to build.
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