I had previously shared the Panzer 1 model from the S-Model company that I made. Along with the Panzer 1 model, I started working on another model that came from Erhan Atalay. Initially, I intended to build both kits together. However, I had to repaint the Panzer 2 model once, which extended the completion time.
Similar to the Panzer 1 I made before, this kit was quite detailed for its size and included many etched details. The assembly process went smoothly, except for a mistake I made at the front by not aligning two plates end to end, which became noticeable when I painted the model.
The details on the tank were raised from the surface, so they didn't get lost during the painting process. In some kits, these details are embedded into the surface and disappear during the primer stage. I wish both barrels were made of metal; it would have looked much better.
The assembly of the tank was completed quickly, and along with its sibling, the Panzer 1, I moved on to the priming stage. Initially, I had planned to paint both tanks in panzer gray. However, later on, I decided to paint this model in desert yellow to avoid them looking too similar.
It's easy to correct mistakes that emerge during the priming stage, making priming essential. I usually prefer gray primer because tanks tend to darken during the painting process. Therefore, I don't like black primer. Some modelers use black primer and then highlight with white to create shading. It's an application that can be tried if you are experienced.
It's interesting that I didn't notice the mismatch at the front during the priming stage as well. I guess I thought the assembly of that part was correct while building the model, and it became impossible to fix later.
Once the primer completely dried, I applied panzer gray paint, similar to what I did with the Panzer 1. However, this color is too dark, so proper modulation is necessary; otherwise, the tank becomes both monotonous and dark.
After painting the tank with panzer gray, I started lightening the color using blue-gray paint. Dark panzer gray was applied to recessed areas, and light blue-gray was used on flat surfaces. This helped break the monotony.
I performed dry brushing by lightening the protruding parts of the tank with white. Dry brushing truly adds dimension to the model. I consider dry brushing and washing to be the two most important stages in modeling. This way, the tank's boundaries become clear, and the tank gains volume.
After finishing the body painting, I started working on the details. I rusted the exhaust located at the rear, painted the tools on the sides in appropriate colors, and finally painted the tank's main gun and machine guns in anthracite color.
At this point, when it was time to paint the tracks, I decided that making two tanks of the same color would be boring. So, I erased the paint I applied. Actually, I regret doing this now. Since these tanks are generally panzer gray, and the Germans didn't bother with camouflage during that period, leaving them in this state would have been more accurate.
After completely erasing the paint, I decided to create a desert camouflage for the tank. I started by painting the tank entirely with the yellow color called dunkelgelb. Then, I went over it with white to lighten the color. In the end, I performed dry brushing using white mixed with African brown to open up the color.
All details, weapons, and tracks were repainted. I struggled a lot while painting the wheels, and there were spills. However, since the wheels are the most weathered parts of the tank, I didn't put much effort into fixing it, thinking I would take care of it later.
Once the painting stage was completed, I applied the classic glossy varnish. Afterward, I waited for the varnish to dry and placed the decals. I used my own decals instead of the ones that came with the kit. I thought a blue decal would look better on a yellow background. Then I applied glossy varnish again.
After finishing the decal stage, I turned to oil paint to further modulate the tank's color. However, the application I did at this stage darkened the tank rather than modulating its color. I tried to modulate the color with green and blue, and finally, I tried to lighten it with white.
Once the oil paint stage was completed, I started washing the tank. This time, I washed the tank with mixtures prepared from oil paint rather than ready-made solutions. However, the oil paint was too strong. I tried to wipe it off afterward, but I couldn't do it very well.
After finishing the washing stage, I applied matte varnish to the tank. After varnishing, the colors and processes settle, blending well with each other. Therefore, using varnish is an important part of modeling.
For weathering, I started with the wheels. I did weathering with a sponge to hide the faulty areas and made them look worn. If you're making a military land vehicle, being able to hide mistakes with weathering is your biggest advantage. Don't tell this to those who make civilian or aircraft models; they would get mad.
After weathering with a sponge, I lightly washed the entire tank with a desert dust solution. I wanted the tank to have a dusty appearance overall. If you wash too much, it fills in the gaps and makes the dark areas shine. So, it's necessary to wash very lightly.
For the side surface where the tracks are located, I filled it with desert sand first. Then, I fixed it using pigment fixer. Finally, I washed it again with a desert dust solution. The particles in that area turned out a bit large compared to the scale. However, it doesn't attract much attention.
I created rust on the tank's tracks and exhaust using the rust solutions I had. Making these parts rusty adds realism and creates a nice contrast. I filled the gaps between the tracks with dust again.
I created shine and wear on all edges of the tank by rubbing them with a pencil and graphite pencil. This application adds a metallic appearance to the tank and enhances realism. If you don't do this, getting rid of the plastic look is also challenging.
I made some small adjustments on the tank and completed the model. S-Model has truly made a beautiful model. I recommend buying it if you can find it from this brand. I shared the finished model and put it in the display case. Next up is another 1/72 scale tank.
In the front of the tank, where I made a mistake, black oil paint accumulated, making it look like a gap. Of course, this also received criticism. But there's no gap there; it's paint accumulation. This was a lesson for me not to make this kind of mistake again in the future.
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