STRV 103C | Trumpeter | 1/72

I had previously built an STRV 103C model—actually the exact same kit. However, the result didn’t satisfy me, so I stripped the paint using DOT3. When that didn’t work effectively, I decided to buy the kit again and rebuild it from scratch. The kit is Trumpeter’s 1/72 scale STRV model. I really enjoy Trumpeter’s thin plastic, so revisiting the build didn’t feel tedious or boring.

Since I already had experience from the previous build, I avoided the mistakes I made the first time. The tank has a very unique architecture, but the build process is relatively simple.

Previously, I had misassembled the upper hatch and antenna ports, so this time I paid special attention to those. The side armor skirts had also been tricky, but I handled them quickly and smoothly this time.

Once the assembly was done, I started the painting phase. I planned to use four colors, so I began masking. I first applied dark green as the base coat, waited for it to dry, and masked the necessary areas.

Next, I sprayed a brown shade, which I mixed with red to create a dull, rusty tone. This blended better with the overall color scheme. After this, I masked again.

Then came the flat black paint layer, followed once more by masking. At this scale, freehand masking is difficult, so I didn’t strictly follow a defined camouflage scheme.

Finally, I applied a light green shade, but due to incorrectly mixing the paint with thinner, I had a lot of trouble. Eventually, I applied it unthinned, which resulted in a thick coat and noticeable layering in some areas.

Once painting was finished, I removed the masks without waiting too long. In the final result, the green was a bit too dominant, but not enough to ruin the model. Overall, I was satisfied with how it turned out.

After the main painting, I colored the details on the tank and finished with dry brushing using lighter tones mixed with white. Even though it looked a bit rough in places, it added visual depth to the model.

I applied a gloss varnish over the entire tank and let it dry. Sometimes I use satin varnish, but because this tank has so many surface details, I preferred gloss to make the weathering process easier.

Once dry, I applied the decals. STRV tanks don’t have large decals like WWII tanks, so placing the small decals took some time.

After applying the decals, I added another coat of gloss varnish to seal and blend them into the surface. If decals aren’t properly integrated, they can look ugly, so sandwiching them between gloss coats is crucial.

Once the gloss varnish dried, I applied an oil filter using burnt umber. I followed up with white and green oil paint filters. These help blend the color transitions and soften tonal contrasts.

Next came the oil paint detailing. I applied white to black areas and used various tones on other parts. Although not strictly necessary for a camouflaged tank, it helped establish good color transitions before weathering.

Because oil paints dry slowly, I waited patiently before moving on. After drying, I began the wash stage.

Due to the many surface features of this tank, I used washes to emphasize panel lines and crevices. I used Tamiya panel liner diluted with thinner for its ease of flow and cleaning.

Once I completed the black wash, I followed up with weathering washes like dust and grime. I even revisited some areas with black wash to restore contrast where needed.

After all the washes were done, I sealed the tank with a matte varnish to create a textured surface ideal for further weathering.

Weathering began with soot application on the barrel tip to simulate muzzle residue. I followed with soot pigments on the exhaust and lightly spread them around to mimic dispersal. I fixed pigments in place using turpentine.

Since I wanted a dusty look overall, I began dirtying the tracks with dusty washes, followed by metallic pigment weathering on edges, and finished with dust-deposit washes.

I didn't do much on the side panels since they’re barely visible. The wheels received the same dusty washes and pigments as the tracks. Where pigment had dulled details, I redefined them with black wash. 

I weathered the front and rear lower surfaces using dark and light pigment washes based on height. Finally, I applied a mud effect to the lowest areas.

The side-mounted fuel drums also got dust and grime treatment. I simulated fuel streaks running down from their caps and created a slurry effect by mixing fuel and dust in select spots.

The top of the tank is flat, so I assumed it would accumulate a lot of dust. I first applied a burnt sienna wash in recessed areas, then used dust deposit solutions for a layered effect.

The anti-AT iron grids on the front were heavily muddied, while the rear portions were dusted. I imagined the front would be dirtier due to splashes from the terrain.

For the crew-walked areas on the roof, I used sponge chipping with dedicated chipping paints and some anthracite weathering in select spots.  

To enhance the tank’s outlines, I used graphite and pencil on all corners. This gave the tank a metallic look and removed the toy-like plastic feel.

The lower front dozer blade got metallic chipping and rusting on the lower edges, then dust and grime to finish.

The lower front dozer blade got metallic chipping and rusting on the lower edges, then dust and grime to finish.

I did a final pass over the tank to fix visible errors. There was paint spatter on the rear track that I couldn’t remove, but I corrected every other issue I found.

With nothing else left to fix, I finally declared the tank finished. It was a satisfying rebuild of a model I had previously failed to complete. Its unusual design made it a unique and enjoyable project.

Another tank done and placed in the display case. Since my workbench is full of 1/72 kits lately, I quickly moved on to another.