Sd.Kfz.165 Hummel [Initial Version] | Dragon | 1/35

This kit was given to me by İbrahim Öner. I believe he needed a tank for a diorama project. Naturally, I didn’t miss the opportunity and jumped on it right away. It was a very detailed kit. I had never built a 1/35 scale model with such an extensively detailed interior before, so it was a great learning experience for me as well.

The tracks were individual link tracks, which have been my favorite lately. I assembled them link by link and tried to create a natural sag. Since I wanted one side of the tank to look damaged, I used different drive sprockets on each side, as if one had been replaced after damage.

During the modification phase, I first removed the side panel. I wanted it to look as if there had been an explosion there and the panel had been blown off. I recreated the damaged parts using an aluminum soda can and other leftover materials I had on hand. I also placed a spare track link between them, as if it had flown in and gotten stuck there—but it eventually fell off. I painted the damaged drive sprocket using Tamiya Surface Primer Red Oxide Spray.

Once the assembly was complete, I primed the entire model in gray using Tamiya Gray Surface Primer. As I mention in every build, I prefer gray primer because it reveals surface flaws and gives me the chance to fix them before applying the main paint. After the primer dried, I applied pre-shading using Mr. Hobby Gunze Aqueous Hobby Color Acrylic Paint GSI-H12 Flat Black.

After completing the priming stage, I moved on to painting the tank. For the base color, I used AK Interactive German Dunkelgelb Special Modulation Set. I realize I’ve been using this set quite often in my last few builds, but the operational period of these models matched this color, so I didn’t really have another choice.

Just as I finished the main color and was ready to move on to details, İbrahim changed his mind and asked for the tank to be painted as if it had been used in a winter diorama. So I applied the hairspray technique and painted the entire tank with Vallejo Model Color 70951 White. Afterward, I distressed the white paint using water and a brush to achieve a winter camouflage effect.

Once the main paintwork was finished, I moved on to painting the details. I started with the tracks. I painted them using Vallejo Air 71080 Rust. For me, this rust tone is the classic track color for World War II vehicles. After that, I dry-brushed the tracks with Vallejo Air 71065 Steel. 

I painted the rubber portions of the wheels with Vallejo Air 71315 Tyre Black. Using the same color, I also painted the metallic parts of the tools both inside and outside the tank. I then dry-brushed the metal parts with Vallejo Air 71065 Steel. 

I first painted the exhaust at the rear and the spare track links at the front using Vallejo Air 71080 Rust. Then I tried to achieve a more natural appearance using pigments from Vallejo Pigment Set Art. 73.194 Rust & Corrosion. I also painted the rods at the rear of the tank with Vallejo Model Color 70951 White and Vallejo Model Color 70957 Flat Red.

I painted the interior of the tank in yellow using the same AK Interactive German Dunkelgelb Special Modulation Set as the exterior. The areas worn by the gun’s forward and backward movement were painted with Revell Aqua Color Aluminium. With that, the entire painting stage of the tank was completed.

After the paint dried, I sealed the tank with a semi-matte coat using Vallejo 70522 Satin Varnish. Although I’ve stopped using satin varnish recently, I was still using it at the time of this build. Once the varnish dried, I started placing the decals.

The decals included in the kit were very high quality. In addition to those, I also used some decals I already had in my collection. I believe the decal added to the gun barrel tip was a particularly nice detail. I placed all the decals using Tamiya Mark Fit. After the decals dried, I applied another satin varnish coat and moved on to the oil-paint filtering stage.

For the filtering process, I used Winsor & Newton oil paints. I first applied a white filter using Winton Titanium White. 

Next, I applied a filter using Winton Chrome Yellow Hue, and finally Winton Burnt Sienna to complete the filtering stage. Filtering fades the paint very effectively and helps bring the color tones closer together.

After the filtering stage, I waited for the Terlans odorless thinner to dry. While this thinner doesn’t bother me with strong fumes, it does take some time to dry. Once it was fully dry, I began the washing process.

For the interior wash, I used AK Interactive AK093 Enamel Wash for Interior. Unfortunately, this wash didn’t flow into the recesses as well as I expected, and I struggled quite a bit to remove it from the painted surfaces. I suspect that due to its formulation, it didn’t move well over the satin varnish.

For the exterior wash, I used Humbrol AV0201 Black Enamel Wash. I think I was more successful on the exterior than on the interior—at least I managed to save the tank with minimal staining. For the tracks, I used AK Interactive AK083 Enamel Track Wash.

Once the washes were complete and the tank had fully dried, I applied a matte varnish to prepare the surface for the next weathering steps. The slightly rough surface created by matte varnish makes weathering much easier. I used Vallejo 26518 Matt Acrylic Varnish as my matte coat.

I generally start weathering from the lower sections of the tank and work my way upward. I applied dust effects to the tracks using various pigment mixes I had on hand. I then applied the same pigments to the sides of the tank and used a mixture of thinner and AK Interactive AK4062 Light Dust Deposit both to add color variation and to fix the pigments in place.

I washed the exhaust and the spare track links at the front using Ammo Mig Jimenez A.MIG-1004 Enamel Light Rust Wash. Using the same product, I also created streaking effects on the model. Looking at them now, these streaks appear a bit too strong.

To finish the weathering stage, I washed the entire hull using highly diluted pigments mixed with thinner to simulate accumulated dust deposits. Finally, I used a graphite pencil and a graffiti pencil to add scratches to raised edges and completed the weathering process.

I finished the tank in this condition and photographed it. When I delivered it to İbrahim Öner, he wanted the tank to look destroyed, so I added an entry hole on the side and an exit hole at the front. Unfortunately, I don’t have photos of this final state. I delivered the completed model and moved on to a new project.

Jagdpanther | Italeri | 1/35

I came across this kit being sold very cheaply online by Levent İnceayan, so I bought it right away. It’s actually Italeri’s 1/35 Jagdpanther kit. I hadn’t built anything in this scale for a while, so I immediately put the Jagdpanther on the bench. Since it’s a pretty old mold, the level of detail was quite limited. I began assembling the kit right away.

First, I had to fit the tracks. They are made of vinyl, so I had to use sewing pins to give them the proper sag. Even then, I don’t think I managed to get the right side to sit correctly.

The kit had a moderate amount of detail. One positive aspect was that the tools hanging on the sides were molded separately, rather than molded onto the hull. However, the spare track links on both sides were made of a very soft vinyl-like plastic, which made them extremely difficult to paint later on.

Since I believe the Jagdpanther looks better without them, I cut off the front fenders completely. I didn’t feel the need to make any other modifications to the tank.

I decided to paint the tank in the classic German yellow. I wanted it to remain a single color, without adding any camouflage on top. Honestly, this was partly to make things simpler. But I also feel that I do single-color models a little better, so I preferred to go this route. 

For painting, I used AK Interactive AK552 German Dunkelgelb Modulation Set. I tried to follow the modulation steps shown on the box. I don’t think I managed to get the modulation on the right side very well. 

Once the main painting was done, I started painting the details. The tracks are the largest visual elements, so I began with them. I painted the tracks with Vallejo Air 71080 Rust. After the paint dried, I dry-brushed the edges and contact surfaces with Vallejo Air 71065 Steel.

I painted the rubber rims of the wheels with Vallejo Air 71315 Tyre Black. I dry-brushed the teeth of the front sprocket with Vallejo Air 71065 Steel. Using the same color, I also dry-brushed the inner sections of the tracks where they contact the wheels.

Some of the inner wheels did not have rubber rims. I painted the parts that touch the tracks with Vallejo Air 71065 Steel. Some experienced modelers were bothered by this at first, but once they checked the references, they agreed it was correct.

I painted the spare track links on the sides with the same Vallejo Air 71080 Rust color that I used on the main tracks. I painted the metallic parts of the tools on the sides with Vallejo Air 71315 Tyre Black, and then dry-brushed them with Vallejo Air 71065 Steel.

I painted the fire extinguishers on the side and rear of the tank with Vallejo Model Color 70957 Flat Red. I’m sure the Germans wouldn’t have used such a color in wartime, but I wanted to add contrast to the tank.

For the wooden tool handles, I first painted them with Revell Aqua Color 36314 Beige. Then I applied Vallejo Model Color 70828 Woodgrain to give a wood texture. It’s not the most realistic way to paint tools, but on large, monotone surfaces, adding contrast wherever possible helps the overall look.

After finishing all the tools and equipment, I let everything dry completely and moved on to varnishing. I used Vallejo 70822 Satin Varnish. I prefer satin varnish because when I use gloss varnish, it becomes difficult to knock down the shine in later stages.

Once the varnish dried, I applied the decals. I used Tamiya Mark Fit to make them settle properly. Tamiya decals are quite thick, and decal solutions work great for softening thicker decals. After they dried, I varnished the model again and began the filtering stage.

After the varnish cured, I first applied an oil paint filter. I used Winsor & Newton oils to apply a Titanium White filter.

After the white filter, I used Winsor & Newton oils again to apply filters in Burnt Sienna and Chrome Yellow Hue. I used to work with Terlans odorless thinner, but lately I prefer Cadence thinner. The Terlans version reacts with Vallejo varnishes and lifts them.

Thanks to the Cadence thinner, the filter dried quickly and I moved on to oil-dot weathering. Since the monotone color could easily look flat, this step was extremely important for this tank.

I applied dots of Winsor & Newton oils—Burnt Sienna, Titanium White, and Chrome Yellow Hue—onto the tank. In some areas, I also added Sap Green and Prussian Blue.

On sloped surfaces, I placed the dots and then pulled them downward using a flat brush moistened with thinner. I realized later that I should have blended the colors more thoroughly. Also, yellow needs to be used very sparingly, as it becomes overwhelmingly strong in the final look.

On flat surfaces, I applied the dots and blended them using circular motions with a round brush dampened with thinner. For some reason, I’m not very good at this step—since I didn’t blend the oils enough, the colors remained too visible and made the finish look sloppy.

After oil-dot weathering, I moved on to pin washing. I used Winsor & Newton Lamp Black thinned with odorless thinner. I applied the mixture into recesses, corners, and armor panel lines. This added depth to the tank. Since the tank was yellow-toned, I applied a second pin wash using Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color – Dark Brown. 

I washed the tracks with AK Interactive AK083 Enamel Track Wash. This helped break up the monotony and reduced the overly pastel look. After completing the washes, I left the model to dry.

Once the tank was dry, I applied another coat of Vallejo 70822 Satin Varnish. I generally prefer the satin look on models. But if a gloss coat is used beforehand, the satin varnish struggles to fully remove the shine.

After the varnish dried, I began the dusting process. I dusted the tracks and wheels using Ammo by Mig Jimenez AMIG3004 Europe Earth. I wiped off the excess with thinner and fixed the remaining pigment in place. I also applied the same pigment onto the large surfaces of the tank and removed the excess with a brush.

To enhance the dusty appearance, I used AK Interactive AK4062 Light Dust Deposit washes. This product helped create convincing accumulated dust effects on the tank’s surfaces. 

I washed the tools on the tank with Ammo Mig Jimenez A.MIG-1004 Enamel Light Rust Wash. This initially gave a heavy rust appearance, so I removed the excess with thinner.

As the final step, I drew over the edges and corners with a graphite pencil and a graphite art pencil. This simple step increases the metallic feel dramatically and helps the model look less like plastic.

After completing all the steps, I finished the model and placed it in my cabinet. In the end, it turned out to be a very monotone, pastel-colored tank. I should have added more variation to the broad surfaces. I put the tank in the display case and turned to my stash to decide which model to build next.