The M60A3 was actually a Revell kit that I had built before. However, back then I didn’t have the level of knowledge I have now, so it remained in my mind as an unfinished experience. I decided to build one again. As always, I started the project with the assembly stage.
Since it was a kit I was already familiar with, I didn’t struggle during assembly. In general, Revell kits aren’t the kind that torture modelers anyway. This time, especially the track layout turned out to be very easy and realistic. It’s very easy to make mistakes at such a small scale.
After completing the assembly, I moved on to painting. First, I primed the model in gray using Tamiya 87042 Gray Surface Primer. As I always mention, you have to be very careful when using spray primers—otherwise, the paint can build up very quickly on the model.
For the painting stage, I used the Vallejo AFV Painting System 78402 US Army Olive Drab Set. I genuinely liked the colors included in this set. Following the instructions provided, I began painting by covering the entire tank with Vallejo Surface Primer 70608 US Olive Drab.
In the second stage, I painted the recessed areas using Vallejo Model Air 71013 Yellow Olive. As it turns out, the first paint in the set was actually a primer, meaning the gray primer wasn’t strictly necessary. In the third stage, I used Vallejo Model Air 71016 USAF Olive Drab to paint all surfaces except the recessed areas.
In the fourth stage, following the instructions in the set, I modulated the previous layer using Vallejo Model Air 71043 Olive Drab. I applied this color mostly to the upper surfaces of the tank. In the final stage, I used Vallejo Model Air 71044 Grey RLM02 to highlight the raised details. I sealed all the paintwork with a satin coat using Vallejo 70522 Acrylic Resin Satin Varnish, which was also included in the set.
Once the varnish dried, I moved on to painting the details. I painted the protective canvas covers on the mantlet using Vallejo Panzer Aces 70314 Canvas. I lightened this color with Vallejo Model Air 71132 Aged White and dry-brushed the canvas areas.
I painted the tracks using Vallejo Model Air 71080 Rust. For the track pads, I used Vallejo Air 71315 Tyre Black. I also painted the rubber parts of the road wheels with the same color. For painting the periscopes, I used Vallejo Panzer Aces 70309 Periscopes.
Finally, I painted the machine gun using Vallejo Air 71315 Tyre Black, completing the general painting stage of the tank. I protected all the work I had done so far by applying another satin coat using Vallejo 70522 Acrylic Resin Satin Varnish from the same set.
After the varnish dried, I applied the decals included in the kit. As always, I used Tamiya 87102 Mark Fit decal softening solution during this stage. Revell decals are generally thin and high quality, so I didn’t encounter any issues. Once the decals dried, I sealed the model again with satin varnish.
I didn’t use any oil paints on the tank. For pin washing, I used Humbrol AV0201 Black Enamel Wash, which helped emphasize the recessed areas. I also used the same product to define the smoke grenade launchers.
After completing the wash stage, I varnished the entire model using Vallejo 26518 Matt Acrylic Varnish. Matte varnish provides a slightly rough surface that helps weathering products adhere to the model. It also makes the finish look more natural, which is why it’s one of the most important steps in scale modeling.
I started the weathering process by applying chipping with a sponge using AK Interactive AK711 Chipping Color. If chipping is overdone, the vehicle can quickly lose its natural appearance, so it’s important to keep this effect under control.
For the tracks, I first applied AMMO MIG-3004 European Earth pigment. Then I brushed AK Interactive AK4062 Light Dust Deposite, thinned with odorless thinner, over the entire track run. I used the same mixture on the lower hull surfaces, completing the weathering of the tracks and underside.
I applied Humbrol AV0004 Weathering Powder Smoke pigment to the exhaust grilles at the rear of the tank and to the heater exhaust outlet at the front, which warms the crew. I used the same pigment on the tip of the gun barrel as well.
I lightly dusted the upper surfaces by brushing on pigment with a loaded brush. This method creates a more natural appearance while keeping the base color from changing too much.
As a final step, I used a graphite pencil and a graffiti pencil on the edges to create a metallic effect. This application helps move the tank away from a plastic look and gives it a convincing metal appearance. I applied these pencils to almost the entire model to strengthen the effect.
Honestly, this ended up being a model where I couldn’t fully break the monotony of a single-color finish. However, I really liked the tone of the color, so I didn’t make further adjustments. I had built this kit before, and in my opinion, this build turned out much better than the previous one. With that, I placed the model in the display case and moved on to a new kit.
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