M60A3 I Revell I 1/72

The M60A3 was actually a Revell kit that I had built before. However, back then I didn’t have the level of knowledge I have now, so it remained in my mind as an unfinished experience. I decided to build one again. As always, I started the project with the assembly stage.

Since it was a kit I was already familiar with, I didn’t struggle during assembly. In general, Revell kits aren’t the kind that torture modelers anyway. This time, especially the track layout turned out to be very easy and realistic. It’s very easy to make mistakes at such a small scale.

After completing the assembly, I moved on to painting. First, I primed the model in gray using Tamiya 87042 Gray Surface Primer. As I always mention, you have to be very careful when using spray primers—otherwise, the paint can build up very quickly on the model.

For the painting stage, I used the Vallejo AFV Painting System 78402 US Army Olive Drab Set. I genuinely liked the colors included in this set. Following the instructions provided, I began painting by covering the entire tank with Vallejo Surface Primer 70608 US Olive Drab.

In the second stage, I painted the recessed areas using Vallejo Model Air 71013 Yellow Olive. As it turns out, the first paint in the set was actually a primer, meaning the gray primer wasn’t strictly necessary. In the third stage, I used Vallejo Model Air 71016 USAF Olive Drab to paint all surfaces except the recessed areas.

In the fourth stage, following the instructions in the set, I modulated the previous layer using Vallejo Model Air 71043 Olive Drab. I applied this color mostly to the upper surfaces of the tank. In the final stage, I used Vallejo Model Air 71044 Grey RLM02 to highlight the raised details. I sealed all the paintwork with a satin coat using Vallejo 70522 Acrylic Resin Satin Varnish, which was also included in the set.

Once the varnish dried, I moved on to painting the details. I painted the protective canvas covers on the mantlet using Vallejo Panzer Aces 70314 Canvas. I lightened this color with Vallejo Model Air 71132 Aged White and dry-brushed the canvas areas. 

I painted the tracks using Vallejo Model Air 71080 Rust. For the track pads, I used Vallejo Air 71315 Tyre Black. I also painted the rubber parts of the road wheels with the same color. For painting the periscopes, I used Vallejo Panzer Aces 70309 Periscopes.

Finally, I painted the machine gun using Vallejo Air 71315 Tyre Black, completing the general painting stage of the tank. I protected all the work I had done so far by applying another satin coat using Vallejo 70522 Acrylic Resin Satin Varnish from the same set.

After the varnish dried, I applied the decals included in the kit. As always, I used Tamiya 87102 Mark Fit decal softening solution during this stage. Revell decals are generally thin and high quality, so I didn’t encounter any issues. Once the decals dried, I sealed the model again with satin varnish.

I didn’t use any oil paints on the tank. For pin washing, I used Humbrol AV0201 Black Enamel Wash, which helped emphasize the recessed areas. I also used the same product to define the smoke grenade launchers.

After completing the wash stage, I varnished the entire model using Vallejo 26518 Matt Acrylic Varnish. Matte varnish provides a slightly rough surface that helps weathering products adhere to the model. It also makes the finish look more natural, which is why it’s one of the most important steps in scale modeling.

I started the weathering process by applying chipping with a sponge using AK Interactive AK711 Chipping Color. If chipping is overdone, the vehicle can quickly lose its natural appearance, so it’s important to keep this effect under control.

For the tracks, I first applied AMMO MIG-3004 European Earth pigment. Then I brushed AK Interactive AK4062 Light Dust Deposite, thinned with odorless thinner, over the entire track run. I used the same mixture on the lower hull surfaces, completing the weathering of the tracks and underside.

I applied Humbrol AV0004 Weathering Powder Smoke pigment to the exhaust grilles at the rear of the tank and to the heater exhaust outlet at the front, which warms the crew. I used the same pigment on the tip of the gun barrel as well.

I lightly dusted the upper surfaces by brushing on pigment with a loaded brush. This method creates a more natural appearance while keeping the base color from changing too much.

As a final step, I used a graphite pencil and a graffiti pencil on the edges to create a metallic effect. This application helps move the tank away from a plastic look and gives it a convincing metal appearance. I applied these pencils to almost the entire model to strengthen the effect.

Honestly, this ended up being a model where I couldn’t fully break the monotony of a single-color finish. However, I really liked the tone of the color, so I didn’t make further adjustments. I had built this kit before, and in my opinion, this build turned out much better than the previous one. With that, I placed the model in the display case and moved on to a new kit.

Bishop I Italeri I 1/72

After spending some time building 1/35 scale models, I went back to 1/72 scale once again. Unfortunately, I can no longer devote enough time to scale modeling, and 1/72 scale is the most efficient option within the limited time I can spare. This time, I started working on a model that I honestly can’t remember how it ended up in my hands. I had never built an SPG before, so this model did spark some excitement for me.

I began with the assembly stage. Almost none of the kit’s plastic parts fit properly. As you can see in the photos, I had to use a large amount of putty to fix the issues. Since there was no proper wheel spacing for the link-and-length tracks, fitting them into place was also extremely difficult.

Once the construction was finished, I moved on to painting. First, I primed the vehicle using Tamiya 87042 Gray Surface Primer, spraying a gray primer coat over the tank. You have to be very careful when using spray cans, because it’s hard to control the amount of paint or primer being applied. It’s very easy to end up with a coat that’s far too thick.

After the primer dried, I corrected the remaining visible flaws and moved on to painting. Instead of using an airbrush, I chose to apply the paint with a sponge. First, I used Vallejo Model Air 71093 OTAN Verde FS34094, dabbing the green paint over the entire tank with a sponge.

To begin modulating the color, I applied a lighter green using Vallejo Model Air 71137 U.S. Verde Claro FS34151, again with a sponge, covering almost the entire tank. This left the darker green in the recesses, while the upper surfaces became predominantly light green.

 

To push the modulation a bit further, I used the lighter green tone of Vallejo Model Air 71009 Eau de Nil Duck Egg Green. This time, I applied it only to the raised areas of the tank, focusing more heavily on the upper surfaces.

Finally, I loaded a brush with Vallejo Model Air 71321 IJA Light Grey Green and painted all the edges and raised details of the tank. This was essentially a highlighting step. With this application, I completed the green color modulation and moved on to painting the details.

As always, I started detailing with the tracks. I first painted them using Vallejo Model Air 71080 Rust as a base coat. Then, I applied Vallejo Model Air 71065 Steel to the areas that contact the ground and rub against the wheels, creating a metallic effect.

For the wooden parts of the tools on the tank, I used Vallejo Panzer Aces 70310 Old Wood. To make the wood look more realistic, I applied a wash using Tamiya Panel Liner Accent Color 87132 Brown. For the metallic parts, I first painted them with Vallejo Air 71315 Tyre Black and then dry-brushed with Vallejo Air 71065 Steel. For the exhaust, I started with Vallejo Model Air 71080 Rust and added soot effects to the exhaust outlet using Humbrol AV0004 Weathering Powder Smoke pigment.

Once the painting stage was complete, it was time to apply the decals included in the kit. First, I sprayed the tank with Vallejo 26517 Acrylic Gloss Varnish. Then I applied the decals and, at intervals, used Tamiya 87102 Mark Fit over them. After the decals were fully set and dry, I applied another coat of gloss varnish.

I didn’t apply any general oil-paint weathering to the tank. Instead, I went straight to pin washing using Winsor & Newton Lamp Black oil paint. To give the tank a dusty overall appearance, I washed the entire model using Winton Burnt Umber. This wash tended to accumulate slightly in the recessed areas.

After the oil paint had dried, I sealed the entire model with Vallejo 26518 Matt Acrylic Varnish. After the matte coat, the colors settled and blended a bit more. Once the matte varnish dried, I moved on to the weathering stage.

For weathering, I first applied chipping using AK Interactive AK711 Chipping Color with a sponge. I focused this application heavily on the edges. After that, I used a graphite pencil and a graffiti pencil to enhance the metallic effect on those same areas.

In the final weathering stage, I mixed Vallejo 73121 Desert Dust and Vallejo 73119 Europe Earth pigments with Cadence thinner and applied them to the model. Since the tank hadn’t seen heavy combat, I avoided excessive weathering. I finished the model in this state and placed it in the display case. It didn’t turn out to be a high-end model, but in the end, the goal is simply to enjoy the time spent building.

Jagdpanther | Italeri | 1/35

I came across this kit being sold very cheaply online by Levent İnceayan, so I bought it right away. It’s actually Italeri’s 1/35 Jagdpanther kit. I hadn’t built anything in this scale for a while, so I immediately put the Jagdpanther on the bench. Since it’s a pretty old mold, the level of detail was quite limited. I began assembling the kit right away.

First, I had to fit the tracks. They are made of vinyl, so I had to use sewing pins to give them the proper sag. Even then, I don’t think I managed to get the right side to sit correctly.

The kit had a moderate amount of detail. One positive aspect was that the tools hanging on the sides were molded separately, rather than molded onto the hull. However, the spare track links on both sides were made of a very soft vinyl-like plastic, which made them extremely difficult to paint later on.

Since I believe the Jagdpanther looks better without them, I cut off the front fenders completely. I didn’t feel the need to make any other modifications to the tank.

I decided to paint the tank in the classic German yellow. I wanted it to remain a single color, without adding any camouflage on top. Honestly, this was partly to make things simpler. But I also feel that I do single-color models a little better, so I preferred to go this route. 

For painting, I used AK Interactive AK552 German Dunkelgelb Modulation Set. I tried to follow the modulation steps shown on the box. I don’t think I managed to get the modulation on the right side very well. 

Once the main painting was done, I started painting the details. The tracks are the largest visual elements, so I began with them. I painted the tracks with Vallejo Air 71080 Rust. After the paint dried, I dry-brushed the edges and contact surfaces with Vallejo Air 71065 Steel.

I painted the rubber rims of the wheels with Vallejo Air 71315 Tyre Black. I dry-brushed the teeth of the front sprocket with Vallejo Air 71065 Steel. Using the same color, I also dry-brushed the inner sections of the tracks where they contact the wheels.

Some of the inner wheels did not have rubber rims. I painted the parts that touch the tracks with Vallejo Air 71065 Steel. Some experienced modelers were bothered by this at first, but once they checked the references, they agreed it was correct.

I painted the spare track links on the sides with the same Vallejo Air 71080 Rust color that I used on the main tracks. I painted the metallic parts of the tools on the sides with Vallejo Air 71315 Tyre Black, and then dry-brushed them with Vallejo Air 71065 Steel.

I painted the fire extinguishers on the side and rear of the tank with Vallejo Model Color 70957 Flat Red. I’m sure the Germans wouldn’t have used such a color in wartime, but I wanted to add contrast to the tank.

For the wooden tool handles, I first painted them with Revell Aqua Color 36314 Beige. Then I applied Vallejo Model Color 70828 Woodgrain to give a wood texture. It’s not the most realistic way to paint tools, but on large, monotone surfaces, adding contrast wherever possible helps the overall look.

After finishing all the tools and equipment, I let everything dry completely and moved on to varnishing. I used Vallejo 70822 Satin Varnish. I prefer satin varnish because when I use gloss varnish, it becomes difficult to knock down the shine in later stages.

Once the varnish dried, I applied the decals. I used Tamiya Mark Fit to make them settle properly. Tamiya decals are quite thick, and decal solutions work great for softening thicker decals. After they dried, I varnished the model again and began the filtering stage.

After the varnish cured, I first applied an oil paint filter. I used Winsor & Newton oils to apply a Titanium White filter.

After the white filter, I used Winsor & Newton oils again to apply filters in Burnt Sienna and Chrome Yellow Hue. I used to work with Terlans odorless thinner, but lately I prefer Cadence thinner. The Terlans version reacts with Vallejo varnishes and lifts them.

Thanks to the Cadence thinner, the filter dried quickly and I moved on to oil-dot weathering. Since the monotone color could easily look flat, this step was extremely important for this tank.

I applied dots of Winsor & Newton oils—Burnt Sienna, Titanium White, and Chrome Yellow Hue—onto the tank. In some areas, I also added Sap Green and Prussian Blue.

On sloped surfaces, I placed the dots and then pulled them downward using a flat brush moistened with thinner. I realized later that I should have blended the colors more thoroughly. Also, yellow needs to be used very sparingly, as it becomes overwhelmingly strong in the final look.

On flat surfaces, I applied the dots and blended them using circular motions with a round brush dampened with thinner. For some reason, I’m not very good at this step—since I didn’t blend the oils enough, the colors remained too visible and made the finish look sloppy.

After oil-dot weathering, I moved on to pin washing. I used Winsor & Newton Lamp Black thinned with odorless thinner. I applied the mixture into recesses, corners, and armor panel lines. This added depth to the tank. Since the tank was yellow-toned, I applied a second pin wash using Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color – Dark Brown. 

I washed the tracks with AK Interactive AK083 Enamel Track Wash. This helped break up the monotony and reduced the overly pastel look. After completing the washes, I left the model to dry.

Once the tank was dry, I applied another coat of Vallejo 70822 Satin Varnish. I generally prefer the satin look on models. But if a gloss coat is used beforehand, the satin varnish struggles to fully remove the shine.

After the varnish dried, I began the dusting process. I dusted the tracks and wheels using Ammo by Mig Jimenez AMIG3004 Europe Earth. I wiped off the excess with thinner and fixed the remaining pigment in place. I also applied the same pigment onto the large surfaces of the tank and removed the excess with a brush.

To enhance the dusty appearance, I used AK Interactive AK4062 Light Dust Deposit washes. This product helped create convincing accumulated dust effects on the tank’s surfaces. 

I washed the tools on the tank with Ammo Mig Jimenez A.MIG-1004 Enamel Light Rust Wash. This initially gave a heavy rust appearance, so I removed the excess with thinner.

As the final step, I drew over the edges and corners with a graphite pencil and a graphite art pencil. This simple step increases the metallic feel dramatically and helps the model look less like plastic.

After completing all the steps, I finished the model and placed it in my cabinet. In the end, it turned out to be a very monotone, pastel-colored tank. I should have added more variation to the broad surfaces. I put the tank in the display case and turned to my stash to decide which model to build next.