M60A3 I Revell I 1/72

The M60A3 was actually a Revell kit that I had built before. However, back then I didn’t have the level of knowledge I have now, so it remained in my mind as an unfinished experience. I decided to build one again. As always, I started the project with the assembly stage.

Since it was a kit I was already familiar with, I didn’t struggle during assembly. In general, Revell kits aren’t the kind that torture modelers anyway. This time, especially the track layout turned out to be very easy and realistic. It’s very easy to make mistakes at such a small scale.

After completing the assembly, I moved on to painting. First, I primed the model in gray using Tamiya 87042 Gray Surface Primer. As I always mention, you have to be very careful when using spray primers—otherwise, the paint can build up very quickly on the model.

For the painting stage, I used the Vallejo AFV Painting System 78402 US Army Olive Drab Set. I genuinely liked the colors included in this set. Following the instructions provided, I began painting by covering the entire tank with Vallejo Surface Primer 70608 US Olive Drab.

In the second stage, I painted the recessed areas using Vallejo Model Air 71013 Yellow Olive. As it turns out, the first paint in the set was actually a primer, meaning the gray primer wasn’t strictly necessary. In the third stage, I used Vallejo Model Air 71016 USAF Olive Drab to paint all surfaces except the recessed areas.

In the fourth stage, following the instructions in the set, I modulated the previous layer using Vallejo Model Air 71043 Olive Drab. I applied this color mostly to the upper surfaces of the tank. In the final stage, I used Vallejo Model Air 71044 Grey RLM02 to highlight the raised details. I sealed all the paintwork with a satin coat using Vallejo 70522 Acrylic Resin Satin Varnish, which was also included in the set.

Once the varnish dried, I moved on to painting the details. I painted the protective canvas covers on the mantlet using Vallejo Panzer Aces 70314 Canvas. I lightened this color with Vallejo Model Air 71132 Aged White and dry-brushed the canvas areas. 

I painted the tracks using Vallejo Model Air 71080 Rust. For the track pads, I used Vallejo Air 71315 Tyre Black. I also painted the rubber parts of the road wheels with the same color. For painting the periscopes, I used Vallejo Panzer Aces 70309 Periscopes.

Finally, I painted the machine gun using Vallejo Air 71315 Tyre Black, completing the general painting stage of the tank. I protected all the work I had done so far by applying another satin coat using Vallejo 70522 Acrylic Resin Satin Varnish from the same set.

After the varnish dried, I applied the decals included in the kit. As always, I used Tamiya 87102 Mark Fit decal softening solution during this stage. Revell decals are generally thin and high quality, so I didn’t encounter any issues. Once the decals dried, I sealed the model again with satin varnish.

I didn’t use any oil paints on the tank. For pin washing, I used Humbrol AV0201 Black Enamel Wash, which helped emphasize the recessed areas. I also used the same product to define the smoke grenade launchers.

After completing the wash stage, I varnished the entire model using Vallejo 26518 Matt Acrylic Varnish. Matte varnish provides a slightly rough surface that helps weathering products adhere to the model. It also makes the finish look more natural, which is why it’s one of the most important steps in scale modeling.

I started the weathering process by applying chipping with a sponge using AK Interactive AK711 Chipping Color. If chipping is overdone, the vehicle can quickly lose its natural appearance, so it’s important to keep this effect under control.

For the tracks, I first applied AMMO MIG-3004 European Earth pigment. Then I brushed AK Interactive AK4062 Light Dust Deposite, thinned with odorless thinner, over the entire track run. I used the same mixture on the lower hull surfaces, completing the weathering of the tracks and underside.

I applied Humbrol AV0004 Weathering Powder Smoke pigment to the exhaust grilles at the rear of the tank and to the heater exhaust outlet at the front, which warms the crew. I used the same pigment on the tip of the gun barrel as well.

I lightly dusted the upper surfaces by brushing on pigment with a loaded brush. This method creates a more natural appearance while keeping the base color from changing too much.

As a final step, I used a graphite pencil and a graffiti pencil on the edges to create a metallic effect. This application helps move the tank away from a plastic look and gives it a convincing metal appearance. I applied these pencils to almost the entire model to strengthen the effect.

Honestly, this ended up being a model where I couldn’t fully break the monotony of a single-color finish. However, I really liked the tone of the color, so I didn’t make further adjustments. I had built this kit before, and in my opinion, this build turned out much better than the previous one. With that, I placed the model in the display case and moved on to a new kit.

Bishop I Italeri I 1/72

After spending some time building 1/35 scale models, I went back to 1/72 scale once again. Unfortunately, I can no longer devote enough time to scale modeling, and 1/72 scale is the most efficient option within the limited time I can spare. This time, I started working on a model that I honestly can’t remember how it ended up in my hands. I had never built an SPG before, so this model did spark some excitement for me.

I began with the assembly stage. Almost none of the kit’s plastic parts fit properly. As you can see in the photos, I had to use a large amount of putty to fix the issues. Since there was no proper wheel spacing for the link-and-length tracks, fitting them into place was also extremely difficult.

Once the construction was finished, I moved on to painting. First, I primed the vehicle using Tamiya 87042 Gray Surface Primer, spraying a gray primer coat over the tank. You have to be very careful when using spray cans, because it’s hard to control the amount of paint or primer being applied. It’s very easy to end up with a coat that’s far too thick.

After the primer dried, I corrected the remaining visible flaws and moved on to painting. Instead of using an airbrush, I chose to apply the paint with a sponge. First, I used Vallejo Model Air 71093 OTAN Verde FS34094, dabbing the green paint over the entire tank with a sponge.

To begin modulating the color, I applied a lighter green using Vallejo Model Air 71137 U.S. Verde Claro FS34151, again with a sponge, covering almost the entire tank. This left the darker green in the recesses, while the upper surfaces became predominantly light green.

 

To push the modulation a bit further, I used the lighter green tone of Vallejo Model Air 71009 Eau de Nil Duck Egg Green. This time, I applied it only to the raised areas of the tank, focusing more heavily on the upper surfaces.

Finally, I loaded a brush with Vallejo Model Air 71321 IJA Light Grey Green and painted all the edges and raised details of the tank. This was essentially a highlighting step. With this application, I completed the green color modulation and moved on to painting the details.

As always, I started detailing with the tracks. I first painted them using Vallejo Model Air 71080 Rust as a base coat. Then, I applied Vallejo Model Air 71065 Steel to the areas that contact the ground and rub against the wheels, creating a metallic effect.

For the wooden parts of the tools on the tank, I used Vallejo Panzer Aces 70310 Old Wood. To make the wood look more realistic, I applied a wash using Tamiya Panel Liner Accent Color 87132 Brown. For the metallic parts, I first painted them with Vallejo Air 71315 Tyre Black and then dry-brushed with Vallejo Air 71065 Steel. For the exhaust, I started with Vallejo Model Air 71080 Rust and added soot effects to the exhaust outlet using Humbrol AV0004 Weathering Powder Smoke pigment.

Once the painting stage was complete, it was time to apply the decals included in the kit. First, I sprayed the tank with Vallejo 26517 Acrylic Gloss Varnish. Then I applied the decals and, at intervals, used Tamiya 87102 Mark Fit over them. After the decals were fully set and dry, I applied another coat of gloss varnish.

I didn’t apply any general oil-paint weathering to the tank. Instead, I went straight to pin washing using Winsor & Newton Lamp Black oil paint. To give the tank a dusty overall appearance, I washed the entire model using Winton Burnt Umber. This wash tended to accumulate slightly in the recessed areas.

After the oil paint had dried, I sealed the entire model with Vallejo 26518 Matt Acrylic Varnish. After the matte coat, the colors settled and blended a bit more. Once the matte varnish dried, I moved on to the weathering stage.

For weathering, I first applied chipping using AK Interactive AK711 Chipping Color with a sponge. I focused this application heavily on the edges. After that, I used a graphite pencil and a graffiti pencil to enhance the metallic effect on those same areas.

In the final weathering stage, I mixed Vallejo 73121 Desert Dust and Vallejo 73119 Europe Earth pigments with Cadence thinner and applied them to the model. Since the tank hadn’t seen heavy combat, I avoided excessive weathering. I finished the model in this state and placed it in the display case. It didn’t turn out to be a high-end model, but in the end, the goal is simply to enjoy the time spent building.

AMX 30B I Meng I 1/35

Up to this point, I had never built a model from a Meng kit. When I found an AMX-30B kit at a very low price online, I decided to buy one. I had already been warned about this kit, but I didn’t listen—and I learned my lesson the hard way. 

The assembly stage actually started off very well. The only issue at first was some gaps at the hull joints. However, once the hull was finished and I moved on to the tracks, things completely went off the rails. The tracks were designed to be workable, but the connection points were so thin that I had to glue them together and shape them manually. Even then, they probably broke off a thousand times.

After somehow finishing the assembly stage without losing my mind, I moved on to painting. I wanted this tank to represent one used by the Chilean Army, so I also bought decals suitable for that version. Before deciding on the final paint scheme, I primed the tank using Tamiya Gray Surface Primer. I didn’t apply any pre-shading, but in hindsight, it might have been a good idea.

During the painting stage, I first tried to identify colors appropriate for the Chilean Army scheme. I started by painting the tank with Vallejo Model Air 71288 UK BSC 64 Portland Stone. 

After the first coat dried, it was time to apply the second camouflage color, Vallejo Model Air 71009 Eau de Nil “Duck Egg Green”. Up until then, I had always done freehand camouflage. This time, I wanted sharper edges, so I tried separating the camouflage transitions using Uhu Patafix. However, since I didn’t mask the beige areas, the green paint created an overspray effect over the beige.

As the final camouflage color, I applied Revell Aqua Color 36302 Satin Black with a brush. I was expecting a more satin finish, but compared to Vallejo paints, it ended up looking slightly glossier. Once the overall camouflage was finished, I moved on to painting the details.

I started by painting the exhausts with Vallejo Model Air 71080 Rust as a base rust color. Then, using a sponge, I applied Vallejo Model Air 71129 Light Rust and Vallejo Model Air 71130 Orange Rust in layers to try and modulate the tone.

I continued detailing with the tracks. I painted them with Vallejo Air 71315 Tyre Black and used the same color on the rubber parts of the wheels. I then dry-brushed the metallic sections of the tracks and the contact points on the wheels using Vallejo Air 71065 Steel.

For the wooden parts of the tools on the tank, I used Vallejo Panzer Aces 70310 Old Wood. To make the wood look more realistic, I applied a wash using Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color 87132 Brown. I painted the metal parts first with Vallejo Air 71315 Tyre Black and then dry-brushed them with Vallejo Air 71065 Steel. I applied the same process to the towing cable, spare track links, and machine gun. 

To paint the periscopes, I used Vallejo Panzer Aces 70309 Periscopes. The color itself was nice, but I think adding more of a glass effect would have improved it. I painted the rear signal lights with Vallejo Model Color 70957 Flat Red, completing all the painting work.

After painting, I sealed the entire tank with Vallejo 70522 Satin Varnish. For decals, I used the Chilean Army markings from Star Decals 35-C 1016 AMX 30 B/B2. While the decals were drying, I softened them using Tamiya 87102 Mark Fit. Once the decals were fully dry, I applied another coat of satin varnish.

After the varnish dried, I moved on to the filtering and oil-paint modulation stage. I use Winsor & Newton oil paints for this. For the filters, I used Winton Titanium White, Winton Chrome Yellow Hue, and Winton Burnt Sienna. Then I tried to modulate the color using Winton Sap Green and Winton Chrome Yellow Hue. I was quite careless at this stage; since I didn’t blend the oils properly, instead of toning down the paint, they remained on the surface like extra layers.

Once the oil paints had dried, I applied a pin wash using Humbrol AV0201 Black Enamel Wash. If I had applied this wash more strongly, I think the result would have looked better. The tank also seems to need an additional overall wash in brown tones—something I realized more clearly after reviewing the photos.

After the model had completely dried, I applied a matte coat using Vallejo 26518 Matt Acrylic Varnish. Matte varnish creates a slightly rough surface, which helps weathering products adhere better. It also makes the colors look more natural. The only downside is that if you overdo it, the model can start to look toy-like.

During the weathering stage, I first applied chipping to areas frequently used by the crew using AK Interactive AK711 Chipping Color with a sponge. Since modern tanks don’t usually rust heavily, I limited the chipping to this single color. I applied a wash to the exhaust using Mig Jimenez A-MIG-1004 Enamel Light Rust Wash.

For weathering the running gear, I first mixed Vallejo 73121 Desert Dust and Vallejo 73119 Europe Earth pigments with Cadence thinner and applied them. After these pigments dried, I applied a wash using AK Interactive AK4062 Light Dust Deposite. Finally, I applied pigments directly onto the model without mixing them with thinner. To be honest, the weathering wasn’t very successful—but at that point, the tracks had broken so many times that I was simply tired of the model.

I applied soot stains to the engine grilles using Humbrol AV0004 Weathering Powder Smoke. I honestly don’t know whether these areas look like this on the real tank. I applied the same pigment to the muzzle as well.

As the final weathering step, I tried to give a metallic look to the raised areas using a graphite pencil and a graffiti pencil. This was the last weathering process applied to the tank.

Once everything was finished, I gifted the tank to a friend. It could have been a much better model. But once the tracks got on my nerves, all I wanted was for the build to be over.